Why can't you guys ever get things right? When I worked at McDonald's we had pride in our store. We had pride in our service. We held the drive-thru speed record for a couple years, and you know what... that was with 100% order accuracy. You have nothing to be proud of, and will not be setting any service records any time soon.
I visit your store at least twice a week and I'm getting some kind of error on almost every order. I make a simple grill order - "NO Ketchup"... how in the hell is this so hard for you to get right? I can not have corn syrup and your ketchup, even in small amounts, causes a major problem for me. This means that maybe 25% of the time I go to your store, I can't eat what I bought. I have called about this and I get put on the list for a free meal. THIS DOESN'T SATISFY ME. It is a brush-off, and I don't appreciate it. In fact, I haven't even redeemed my free meal yet. You need to re-train everyone including managers to be more attentive to details, make people LEARN ENGLISH so they can get these things right, and teach people to take some pride in their work. Even when they get my order right, the product is usually so poorly assembled that I have to take it apart and mash it back together again. CENTER is a verb in McSpeak, and you need to teach people what it means.
I continue to patronize your store because of the great value and convenience, and I will in the future in the hopes that you will fix this problem. I am disappointed. This is not the vibrant, proud company I worked for in the 90s - which is why you are no longer number 1 in the market. What has changed? The food is still the same, the value is still the same... but the service universally sucks.
NOTE: I've made some changes to the plane since I first wrote this, so please read the comments!
So, I wasn't going to write this, because I figured it out OK, but I realized when looking
through the forums, that many people have trouble assembling the Slow Stick, and that
beginners are not sure of what to buy for a flight pack. I also think it's important
to delineate somewhere what the total cost of this plane really is, in time and money.
Right up front I will tell you, it was $313.28 for all the parts I needed and about
6 hours of assembly time. However, I didn't mind it because I'm currently immobilized
due to a "messed up" (doc's words, not mine) ankle. I hurt myself pretty badly getting
an Estes Sky Ranger out of a tree.
The Sky Ranger just doesn't fly very well at all, and that's to be expected because
it is truly a $40 and ready-to-fly RC airplane. You have to do a lot of work just to
keep it in the air, and it really only flies well when it's going straight into the
wind. You get what you pay for with the cheap park flyers, and in my case that's about
200 bucks of medical bills. Now, I'm not saying to avoid the cheap park flyers, just
make sure that you have lots of space (more than a football field) and you are not easily
frustrated. It took me 3 separate flying sessions to figure out how to make the Sky
Ranger stay up in the air, and then I crashed it in a tree (and it was just when I was
starting to have fun with it).
So, in my frustration over planes that are so horrible that they lead to injuries, I
went to a hobby shop in search of a REAL RC plane. I knew I either wanted the Slow Stick,
or the Parkzone Slo-V, but the Parkzone is ready-to-fly, and with my bum ankle I kind
of wanted something to keep myself busy with. The Slow Stick requires some assembly,
and it affords you the option of purchasing equipment you can use with other planes
in the future. All of the parts listed below could be useful on other planes, and it's
up to me whether I want to remove it from the Slow Stick or buy another one. So here
goes, here's how I built my Slow Stick!
The Parts List
GWS Slow Stick Kit ($34.98)
This is the basic kit, which includes the basic parts of the plane, and the motor and
propeller. It's cheap, but it's not functional by itself.
Hitech Laser 4 Transmitter/Radio Kit ($117.98) This radio kit came with the transmitter, and also the parts which are mounted
on the plane. When you buy your radio, it will come with servos and a receiver which
must be mounted on the plane. This is something I didn't understand at first... the
servos come with the radio and they are designed to work correctly with that radio.
Same for the receiver. The servos and receiver are powered by a Ni-MH battery pack that
came with the radio. You can buy extra receivers and servos, and the kit came with two
extra servos that I didn't need for the Slow Stick (they would be for ailerons, which
are not present on this plane). Overall this is a pretty important purchase, since you
will be using this transmitter for other planes... hopefully ALL of them. Don't skimp
on this one. Get a good one. This one I bought is about as cheap as you can go for a
good radio. GWS sells some cheaper ones, but I don't think they are as good. This is
the most expensive part you will purchase for your hobby, but don't be cheap... get
a quality radio that will last a long time... otherwise you'll end up buying other ones,
and your costs will soar higher than the planes you're building.
Thunder Power 3-Cell Li-po battery ($54.98) OK, here's where you have some options. You need a good battery pack to power
the motor. I chose this 3-cell Li-Po battery, which was a little expensive. You can
go as low as 20 bucks on this one, for a Ni-MH pack, but I think a good Li-Po battery
is a smart purchase. They are somewhat dangerous to mess around with and you have to
be careful charging them and connecting and disconnecting them to avoid fire. However,
the risk of fire with a Li-Po battery is less than that of gasoline, and if you're smart
about it, you'll be fine. Electric power is the wave of the future, and messing around
with gasoline is just a dirty pain in the butt. Li-Po will give you better power and
less weight (important on an airplane). So, note that you have two power sources on
the completed plane. This battery runs the motor only - the servos are powered by the
receiver battery pack. These batteries are not 100% charged up on the first time, so you'll need to
drain it and recharge it at least once before you fly. The best way to do this is after you finish the plane.
Simply block the plane's forward movement somehow and run it at less than full throttle, until the ESC cuts off the power.
It's not a good idea to put a Li-Po battery under heavy load until it has been 'broken in', so don't run
it at full throttle for a long time until you have cycled the battery a few times.
After your test, allow the battery to cool for about 15 minutes, then recharge it. Use a clock
for this - 15 minutes is longer than you think! The first time I didn't check, but the
second cycle on this battery gave me a little over 20 minutes of continuous running at 50% throttle.
Electrifly Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) ($34.98)
This is another fairly important part. It serves two purposes - it controls the throttle
power via the receiver, and it protects the battery from over-discharging. This one
I bought is a little better than the minimum requirement, and it will be able to run
a slightly more powerful motor if I want to change motors in the future. The ESC is
tuned specifically for this type of battery, and it only works with standard brushed
motors. If you want to go with a brushless motor, you will need a different kind of
ESC. The GWS kit comes with a brushed motor, so this is a good controller to start with.
It has plugs for connections, but you'll need to cut and solder those to the motor wires.
The GWS motor is already loaded with capacitors, so you won't need those, but they are
included with the ESC.
Eflite Celectra Li-Po battery charger ($44.98)
This battery charger is fairly simple, and requires a 12V DC source for power. I have
an thing that turns a wall outlet into a car cigarette lighter, and then I bought an
adapter so I can plug this into my car as well. The charging leads on this had to be
modified to fit my battery. I will explain below.
Plug Adapter for battery ($3.25) The battery comes with bare wires, so you need a nice plug to use it. The plug
needs to be soldered on to the battery, and you'll need to be really careful doing this
because you don't want to heat up the battery wires too much - it's a Li-Po. Also make
sure you don't strip the positive wire until you have completely soldered and insulated
the negative terminal, because short-circuiting a Li-Po battery is asking for trouble.
There is a male plug on the ESC already, so I put the female plug on the battery, and
I used the male side of this kit to make a nice plug for the battery charger. I used
plenty of electrical tape to insulate this, lock the wires in place and to give me something
to grab onto.
Assembling the Plane
Although the instructions are written in poorly translated Chinese-English, they are reasonably easy to understand. I'll mention a few things
here that aren't covered in the instructions or are not clear from the instructions. If you have additional questions, please post them in the comments
and I will answer them there for everyone to see. Please do not send me a private email about this... any help on this subject really should be made public.
The first page of instructions requires you to complete the tail assembly. You need to cut the foam of the tail and the stabilizer in order to make
the control surfaces movable. Use a very sharp razor blade in your box cutter to do this. It does not need to be a 45-degree angle, as 45-degrees will be
way more space than you need for control surface movement. Basically, you will make a V-groove by cutting some foam away from one side of the fold.
You need to check the proper side to do this for. It may be incorrect in the picture in your instructions. One side of the foam will be pre-cut more deeply and the other side
will be uncut. Put tape over the UNCUT side, and dig out your V-groove on the other side. The photo shows what this will look like when you are done.
The fuselage of my plane was pre-drilled with holes in the tail section. This made it easy to attach, but if you don't have holes, you might need to drill them.
I wouldn't advise glueing this plane together. I just don't think it would hold. Also, I want to be able to take it apart, so screws are a better choice. You will use the
double-sticky tape to attach the vertical stabilizer, and it seems to hold pretty well. At this point, I departed from the order in the instructions and inserted and glued
the servo arms before I attached the tail to the rest of the plane. It's just easier to work with smaller peices, and I read the instructions completely before I started,
and I anticipated those steps would be more difficult if done in the noted order. So after I got those done, I attached the tail and proceeded to finish the fuselage.
The instructions weren't exactly clear on this and I did it wrong the first time, but you need to put the battery mounts IN FRONT of the wings if you use the
Li-Po battery, and follow the diagrams if you are using the NiMH batteries. It is a pain to remove everything and re-order the parts when you have the plane completely
finished, so don't make this mistake if you can avoid it. The position of the battery will affect the center of gravity (CG) of the plane, and you want the CG to be in the
front section of the wing. If it is balanced too far to the rear, the plane will be unstable, and if too far forward, the plane will be hard to turn. I had to put my receiver under the fuselage, instead of above as noted in the diagrams, because my receiver was too big and it kept running into
the wings and the wings wouldn't mount properly. The photo shows where I had to mount everything.
So, the next thing I had to do was figure out my battery pack and charger. I mention above how I had to do that, in the section about the battery.
Here's a photo of the finished plug from the battery. The plug on the charger was done the same way.
Probably one of the first mods I will make on this plane is to fix the taildragger wheel. The parts that are supposed to hold the wheel on do not fit, so I had to use a
different part with a smaller hole in it. I got a few extra plastic parts in the Slow Stick kit, so I used one of those to fix the wheel onto the wire. I don't like this taildragger
part because it doesn't turn. This makes it hard to taxi the plane on the ground, which would be convenient if you landed some distance away. You could taxi the plane back to where you
were standing, rather than walking over to pick it up. With my ankle the way it is, this seems like a good feature to have. The photo shows how I attached my tail wheel.
When I got my plane completed and all three batteries charged up, I decided to test everything, and I also wanted to drain and re-charge the Li-Po battery, so that it
will be nice and strong when I take the plane out for the first time. The video shows how to accomplish this.
That's about it. The rest of the instructions are fairly easy to understand in spite of the bad English. If you have any questions, please post them. The electric flyer community
will appreciate it!
Every woman who has any online presence at all knows that men are, for the most part, really dumb about communicating. I get a lot of email that completely wastes my time, and I really don't know what to say to people sometimes. I wrote this for Myspace a while back, but it bears repeating.
I like to make friends or I wouldn't be here, but you need to realize a few things before you send me a message. I am not a Bitch From Hell, I am quite friendly, but I am really sick of getting emails that totally waste my time. You will not get a response (or you might get flamed), if you do not conduct yourself in a certain manner. Please read the following link, and then read my comments below. Not everything in the article applies to me (see below), but in general it is correct. Again, you will not get a favorable response if I think you don't understand the following things:
If it's not clear after reading that, please don't bother to send me a message. Here are additional comments, in no particular order, to keep in mind (most of these will not apply to women, who seem to already understand):
1. I already know you think I'm hot. I love compliments (what girl doesn't), but if you wish to compliment me, please be specific. Tell me which photos you like, what you like about them, and why it appeals to you. Also, complimenting something I had to say will go a long way. Girls don't want to get the impression that you are a shallow lunkhead who can't read and only looks at the pictures.
2. I also already know that you want to suck my dick or fuck me or something like that. I really don't want to hear it. It goes without saying and if you want to have any chance of fulfilling your fantasy, keep your balls reigned-in, and think with your big head, not your little one.
3. Don't send me a one-liner message with no subject line. Take the time to write something meaningful. I am an intelligent and educated woman, and I am looking for the same in a partner. You will not get very far if you can't write in complete sentences. Also, check your spelling and grammar. The only time I have ever responded to a man without a profile was because he wrote me a really good message!
4. Have your profile filled out. I will not respond to people with no pictures and nothing to say about themselves. I am interested in relationships fueled by conversation... show me that you can provide that.
5. I am a pre-op transsexual, which means I think of myself as a woman, I behave like a woman, expect to be treated like a woman, but I do still have my 'boy parts'. I do realize (unlike a lot of t-girls), that this makes me quite different from your average woman, and I am not afraid to admit that. I do realise and accept the fact that you might find this sexually interesting, but I won't find you sexually interesting if it seems like you are interested in my genitalia, rather than my brain. Do not ask me if my boy parts are 'functional'... that depends entirely on you and whether you entice me or not.
6. Unlike the girl who wrote the article above, I am not an asexual being who hates my penis. I happen to enjoy what I have, particularly with women. However (and this is very important), I am not on this earth to help you fulfill your fantasies of being with a "man". If you are a man who likes dick, YOU ARE GAY. Get over it, come out, and seek out men. I am not a dick in a pretty package. If you do manage to have a sexual encounter with me, you will walk away feeling just as gay as you would after a sexual encounter with Arnold Schwarzenegger.
7. Don't be sappy or overly sentimental. Poetry will get you no where. I find it to be unoriginal and condescending. I am an educated woman and I will know if you copy someone else's work. Say something original.
8. I am not a crossdresser - I do not have a women's clothing fetish. This is not a sexual thing, it is a way of life. Please don't ask me what I like to wear, what I'm wearing right now (probly jeans and a t-shirt), and so on. This will get you no where... it's not about the clothes. I am a transsexual, not a transvestite... if you are looking for someone to model 'sexy' clothing for you, go somewhere else, unless you are a legitimate fashion designer looking for models (and you better be able to prove it). I realise that my photos show me in some fetishy clothing, but that is not how I am in everyday life. I see lots of women on this site posting photos of themselves in sexy attire. They obviously don't go around on the street in a bikini and high-heels. I don't either.
That's just about it... treat me like a woman. If you understand the headline on my profile, you will realise that I do have a sense of humor about being transgendered. I know I'm different from most women, but I don't like it shoved in my face, and I don't want that difference to be the sole reason for your attraction to me. I am not a man, I don't think like a man, and as such, I'm not looking for sexual encounters, I want something more!
The Sky Ranger just doesn't fly very well at all, and that's to be expected because
it is truly a $40 and ready-to-fly RC airplane. You have to do a lot of work just to
keep it in the air, and it really only flies well when it's going straight into the
wind. You get what you pay for with the cheap park flyers, and in my case that's about
200 bucks of medical bills. Now, I'm not saying to avoid the cheap park flyers, just
make sure that you have lots of space (more than a football field) and you are not easily
frustrated. It took me 3 separate flying sessions to figure out how to make the Sky
Ranger stay up in the air, and then I crashed it in a tree (and it was just when I was
starting to have fun with it).
